The Hawaii Guide

Kukui’ula

Kauai is paradise, in part because it's the least touristed of Hawaii's islands, but with that comes a dearth of good place to stay. One relatively new and excellent antidote to the housing crunch—particularly for families, or anyone traveling with other couples—is the Lodge at Kukui'ula, a private club in Poipu that stretches across 1,000 acres. Comprised of multi-bedroom homes—most with adjacent guest houses—it is really well done, with plenty of high-end touches and amenities. It is so well done in fact, that you might find yourself spending too much time sprawled out on the couch, and not enough time at the beach. While all the homes are equipped with lavish kitchens, the club restaurant is excellent, and serviced by an on-site organic garden. There's a multi-level pool, complete with hot tubs, a water slide, and a beach (the real beach is just across the road), a keiki play room lined with toys, DVDs, and all the things you might not have packed, including bouncy chairs and strollers, and an on-site outfitters staffed by locals who know all the island's secrets—what's better is that they'll take you there, or pack you a cooler and bag of equipment and send you on your way. For those otherwise inclined, there's a gym, yoga studio, tennis courts, and a Tom-Weiskopf-designed golf course, alone with an excellent spa.

The Palmwood

Nestled on a secluded 5-acre estate in the Moloa’a hills on Kauai’s north shore, The Palmwood is a veritable sanctuary—as a bed-and-breakfast, it’s got a personal touch you aren’t likely to find at the major resorts. Inspired by the country inns found in the mountains of Japan, the rooms here are on the cozy side with warm, Eastern-inspired furnishings, and the grounds are lush and green. Best of all: this intimate, peaceful hideaway is close to some of the island’s finest attractions. As it is a real-deal B&B, we also hear that Auntie Eddi makes the very, very best breakfast. (Tip: you can reserve any one of their three rooms on Airbnb.)

Hanalei Bay Massage

With its in-depth menu of massage offerings—ranging from Swedish and Shiatsu to traditional Hawaiian “Lomi Lomi”—Hanalei Bay beats any hotel spa massage. They also do acupuncture, a signature “Raindrop Therapy” treatment with essential oils, and tarot and astrological readings.

Bar Acuda

Chef Jim Moffat opened this Hanalei spot for tapas and fine Mediterranean wines after establishing himself with two restaurants in San Francisco (the jazz club, 42 Degrees, and the bistro, The Slow Club). Thanks to the chef’s close collaboration with island fishermen and local organic farmers, these small plates are brimming with Hawaii-inspired fare made from fresh, regional ingredients—like ono (a kind of mackerel, also known as wahoo), ahi tuna poké, and roasted ali’i mushrooms—which also means the selection changes daily, and ingredients vary by season. Their curated wine list features select Estate-bottled Rhone-style specialties, several of which come from wineries that practice sustainable, organic, or biodynamic farming. As one of the island’s foodiest destinations, it’s likely to be busy—call ahead, or come ready for a bit of a wait.

Pizzetta

Inspired by chef Cathy Shyne’s hometown of Altomonte, Calabria in Southern Italy, Pizzetta is a go-to in Old Koloa Town. It has all the classics you’d expect, along with entrées that are Italian-meets-Hawaiian—like kalua pork (grilled in papaya BBQ sauce) and grilled ono (Hawaiian mackerel). Set in an airy, open space with indoor and outdoor seating, it’s perfect for a laid-back meal of quality comfort food.

Kilauea Fish Market

This quaint and cozy cottage house is a perfect casual lunch spot with outdoor seating for local fish—seared ahi tuna poké wraps, mahi mahi tacos, as well as some very interesting non-fish items, like sea asparagus. If you’re not in the mood for seafood, they also offer delectable BBQ chicken and a few vegetarian options (including big, hearty burritos). Important to note: It gets busy come dinner, and they’re closed Sundays.

Banana Joe’s Fruit Stand

On the road to Kauai’s North Shore, before Princeville and Hanalei, and just past the town of Kilauea, look for the yellow hut on the side of the mauka (mountain) side of Kuhio Highway (between mile marker 23 and 24 if you’re headed north). This old-fashioned fruit stand has been in business since 1986, specializing in exotic fruits like atemoya, rambutan, and starfruit, and classic tropical fruits like banana (several varieties), Kauai’s strawberry papaya, and mango. Get one of their entirely fruit frosties (pineapple, banana, or pineapple-banana mix—can’t go wrong on flavor) that they press through a Champion Juicer. Easily rivals most soft-serve. Photos: Peter Burka, e.t.

Sushi Girl

Stop here on your way to Ke’e Beach (sometimes called the beach at the end of the road/world). Everything here is gluten-free (even the soy sauces), sourced from local fish, and made with organic vegetables. Get the ahi sushi burrito.

Java Kai

The exterior of this eclectic Kapaa cafe is painted a bright turquoise blue with a red, French-door entrance. The coffee here is serious business: Java Kai hand-roasts all their brews—you can usually catch a glimpse of the process through the back windows on Monday and Friday morning. In addition to the famed Kona coffee from the Big Island, Java Kai also makes coffee using beans from Maui, Kauai, and Molokai. They serve breakfast and lunch, too, until 3pm but the shop can get really busy, especially in the mornings, so ordering online or over the phone can save time. Or if you’re just getting coffee, try their smaller barista spot, The Kai Bar, which is in the back of the building, next to Kauai Juice Co., and typically open until 11am.

Hanalei Bread Company

This brand-new, open-air coffee shop café—from the same people as Bar Acuda—is one of those spots that's perpetually packed, though you can generally always snag a spot (they also do a lot of perfect pre-packed beach picnic fare). While it's not exclusively allergen-free, there are tons of options for the gluten- and dairy-averse, including really good almond milk lattes and delicious rolls and breads. Brunch-time is particularly prime (consider a stop on your way to hike the Napali coast), as they offer very kid-friendly crepes, as well as lots of egg dishes.

Shipwrecked

Shipwrecked has a good edit of women’s, men’s, and kid’s clothing, plus home decor, accessories, and jewelry. Pretty much everything you’d want to wear while in Hawaii (i.e. bikinis, one-pieces, cover-ups, cut-offs, crop tops, loose-fitting midi dresses, gladiator sandals, sunglasses) is here, along with plenty of gifts you’ll want to bring home.

Salt Pond Beach

A natural lava rock ridge protects this crescent beach, meaning its gentle lagoon makes for safe, easy swimming and snorkeling with kids. (Plus, its glimmering red-and-gold sand is too pretty to miss.) Located close to Hawaii’s last remaining traditional salt-gathering ponds (hence the name), it’s known to be a preferred hangout for Monk Seals, as well as local families. That said, in order to protect the fragile natural environment, the namesake salt ponds are off-limits to the public.

Ke’e Beach

This peaceful ocean lagoon at Ke'e Beach is the last car-accessible stop on the north shore, and as this part of the coastline is shielded by coral reef, it’s perfect for snorkeling—particularly during the summer months, when the water is calmest. It also offers views of the Nāpali coast.

Kayak Wailua River & Hike to Waterfall

This stunning natural adventure takes you up the Wailua River by kayak, followed by a short hike to a secret enclosure with a gorgeous waterfall; it’s pretty easy to do on your own, though there are tours as well. The trip takes about four hours roundtrip—don’t forget to pack a lunch.

Anini Beach

Protected even in strong surf by what is, in fact, Hawaii’s largest coral reef, the crystal-clear waters of Anini (which was called Wanini until a hurricane knocked the W off the sign, and the locals decided to leave it) are shallow and calm enough for little ones. Better yet, there’s ample public parking, and grassy picnic spots abound.